Near the Ben Youssef madrasa – the city’s most important Islamic school – this cute, six-room riad is one of the oldest houses in the medina, though you’d never know it. It’s arranged around a central courtyard shaded by bitter-orange trees (for making marmalade). You can sip tea by the fire in the first-floor salon, feast on traditional tagines and couscous in the red dining room, and laze around down in the bhou – a built-in sofa beneath the inglenook-style beams. The in-house chefs, Hanane and Cherifa, host cooking classes (€40pp). Rooms have colourful details – candy-striped easy chairs in the Garden room and turquoise pom-pom blankets in the Berber room – and the rooftop views of the Atlas mountains are sensational.