In recent years Koh Kradan has become the most popular of the Trang beaches. With sands the colour of Carrara marble and azure waters, it’s easy to see why. Cashew trees lend their distinctive fragrance to the air, and at low tide the ripples of the Andaman Sea recede to reveal wide sandbars so bathers can stroll far out into the sea. Even if this island no longer quite qualifies as untouched, the majority of the land is protected by Hat Chao Mai national park, keeping development to a minimum. Bucket bars, beach parties, and other tourist trappings are conspicuously absent, as are convenience stores and ATMs. Most visitors stay and sun on Kradan Beach, a skinny, 2km palm-fringed strip. For a more secluded spot, ride a longtail boat for roughly half a kilometre to this cove on the western coast. The beach’s popular nickname says it all: go at the end of the day to watch the sky flare into magenta, scarlet and saffron.